CENTERSTAGE CHICAGO
by Janet Arvia

Move over Starbucks, there's a new coffee house in town. Actually, it's rather old. Since 1862, Julius Meinl has been selling coffee in Vienna. And now Europe's premiere coffee roaster has opened its first and only American establishment - here in Chicago!

Personal pastry recipes, daily-imported beans, and customized furniture have all been brought in from Vienna to transform the U.S. shop into an Austrian haven. Only the central European logo depicting a dark coffee boy was revised with a gold face to accommodate politically correct Chicagoans. Still, the historical pictures and soft classical music echo old world elegance, as do the menu selections.

For only a few dollars, patrons may indulge in a delicious and generous cup of coffee, served in attractive dishware, with a chocolate! Among the tempting options are Melange (espresso with equal parts of steamed and foamed milk) and Eiskaffee (two scoops of ice cream topped with espresso and whipped cream). A dozen premium leaf teas are also available.

Recommended Viennese specialties include Meinl's Millennium torte, a flourless chocolate cake made from an old family recipe. Slices of apple and farmer's cheese strudels are served at room temperature.

With desirable dishes and merchandising souvenirs, it's no surprise Julius Meinl attracts many visitors. Mind you, the 70-seat eatery never seems crowded. Roomy booths and high ceilings contribute to the relaxing atmosphere, as an efficient staff readily administers to both sit-down and to-go customers.

Julius Meinl has been offering smooth, medium-roasted brews for more than 140 years, yet it only took one week of Chicago success to raise its prices. Obviously the company knows how to win over a neighborhood and run a business. Unlike its less fortunate Southport predecessors (Viennese Kaffee Haus and the Mozart Cafe) coffee lovers can bet their double mocha Frappuccino, Julius Meinl is here to stay.