Dining
& Wining
The New York Times
Heady
Coffee Brews From Vienna
The
richly aromatic coffee served with or without whipped cream at Cafe Sabarsky in
the Neue Galerie is now available in New York stores. It is made by Julius Meinl
(pronounced MY-nil), a Viennese coffee company that has been in business since
1862. Most of the coffees are blends notable for rounded flavor and low acidity,
with names like Wiener Melange, Imperial Melange and Vienna Night.
They
are roasted medium-dark, typical in Vienna, and are sold both whole bean and ground.
Some decaffeinated varieties are available. I especially liked the mellow Wiener
Melange with steamed milk and the more robust King Hadhramaut, black. The coffees
are $8.50 to $10 for about 17 ounces at Zabar's and Grace's Marketplace in Manhattan
and at Chef Central in North Paramus, N.J. Dean & DeLuca carries special assortments
for $16 and $28. The coffees are also sold, mostly for $6.80 to $8.50, from www.meinl.com.
There is a shipping charge of $18.99 for up to 10 pounds.